Chronicles of Oklahoma

Yellowed and crumbling with the passing of eighty-four years, the pages of a small, leather bound notebook reveal the story of the overland journey of a party of Cherokees who set out from the Grand Saline, Cherokee Nation, for California in 1850. This journal was kept by a young Cherokee, John Lowery Brown, who recorded the progress of the emigrants day by day. It tells the difficulties encountered along a wilderness trail through the Rocky Mountains; the perils of travel over vast stretches of desert without water and food; the danger of attack by hostile Indians living in those regions; and the terrible epidemic of cholera that swept the West, causing the deaths of thousands of emigrants along all the thoroughfares to the Pacific coast in 1850. Something in the flourish of the faded words "Off for California" at the top of the first page of this old journal still imparts the enthusiasm and high courage that fired the spirits of the adventurers to leave their nation in view of such hazards. Lured by the discovery of gold in California, several parties of Cherokees, other than Brown's, set out about the same time. Many of them were young men who never returned home.

The journal was written in ink, an entry being made every day from the time Brown left a point near present Stillwell, Adair County, Oklahoma, on April 20, until reaching the gold fields in California on September 28, a total of 161 days. Intermittent entries were set down in the journal up to December 11, 1850. The writing, spelling and punctuation compare well with other early records, kept in the midst of the excitement and the hardships attending life on an overland trail. The pages are not numbered, all entries having been set down consecutively on the right hand page up to and including page forty-four, after which regular

entries were made on both sides of the leaf. There are seventy-five pages of entries, additional notes appearing in the date margins and on several pages to the left up to page forty-four.

The publication of this journal for the first time and its presentation herewith to readers of Chronicles of Oklahoma were made possible through the loan of the original by its present owner, Mrs. E. W. Gist, of Oklahoma City, a granddaughter of John Lowery Brown.¹ The transcript which follows is an exact copy of the original, including spelling, punctuation, position of the entries on the page, marginal notes, and left hand page notes. However, in some places where no punctuation appears in the original, spaces have been left in the transcript to make the reading less confusing. In all instances, annotations by the editor, in the text, are designated by small figures. Numbers of the pages, counted and indicated by the editor, appear in brackets.

The party of gold seekers, of which John Lowery Brown was a member, was captained by Clement Vann McNair from the Grand Saline, Cherokee Nation, as far as the Cache La Poudre River, Colorado, were he resigned the command, Thomas Fog

¹John Lowery Brown was the son of David and Rachel (Lowery) Orr Brown. Rachel Brown was the fifth child and youngest daughter of George and Lucy Benge Lowery. George Lowery born about 1770, was one half Cherokee and Scotch. He was town chief of Willstown in the Cherokee Nation East and also a leading citizen after the immigration to the West. He died in 1852.

David Brown was three-fourths Cherokee, the son of John and Sarah Webber Brown. David's sister, Catherine Brown, noted for her beautiful character and personality, was the first Christian convert among the Cherokees, at Brainerd Mission, Tennessee, in 1818. After her death, a book "Memoir of Catherine Brown" was published in her memory by the American Board at Boston in 1824. David attended both Cornwall Mission School, in Connecticut, and Andover Theological Seminary, in Massachusetts. After his return to the Cherokee Nation East, he was prominent in religious and educational work among his people. For a time he lived among the Western Cherokees in Arkansas and clerked in the store of his half brother, Walter Webber, who later moved up the Arkansas River and settled what is now known as Webber Falls, in Muskogee County. Just before Sequoyah made known his invention of the Cherokee alphabet, David Brown and his father-in-law, George Lowery, completed a Cherokee spelling book in English characters. In 1826, they were both appointed by the General Council of the Cherokee Nation to make the first translation of the Cherokee laws and the New Testament in the Cherokee language using Sequoyah's alphabet.

After John Lowery Brown returned to the Cherokee Nation from California, he and his wife. Ann E. (Schrimsher) Brown, made their home at Fort Gibson. Their second son, Martin R. Brown, was born in 1858. In 1887, Martin R. Brown married Miss Nannie Adair. He was a successful business man and prominent in educational circles in his nation, elected clerk of Illinois District in 1881, member of the National Board of Education in 1886, and superintendent of the Male Seminary in 1894. Mr. and Mrs. Brown were the parents of Mrs. Gist who is the namesake of her great-aunt, Catherine Brown. She was married to Mr. Emmet W. Gist, of Oklahoma City, in 1915. They are the parents of one daughter, Dorothy, who graduates from Classen Highschool, Oklahoma City, this year (1934).

Taylor taking his place. The route followed through Oklahoma lay northwest from the crossing of the Grand River, near the Grand Saline, across Pryor Creek to the Verdigris, fording that stream near Coody's Bluff, thence up California and Caney creeks and across to the Arkansas Valley near the present northern boundary of Oklahoma. Proceeding north, the party struck the Santa Fe Trail about eight miles east of Turkey Creek, in present Kansas, and followed this trail to Bent's Fort in Southeastern Colorado. The route then led by way of Pueblo, Cherry Creek (Colorado) and Bridger's Fort (Wyoming) to Salt Lake City; thence across the Salt Lake Desert and the mountains of Eastern Nevada to the Humboldt River, following that stream and the Carson River on up to Carson's Pass over the Sierra Nevada Mountains and down to Weaverville (Weberville), a mining camp or town in Eastern California at that time.

That the parties of gold seekers from the Cherokee Nation had an important part in the history of immigration to California, beginning with 1849, is shown by the fact that the name "Cherokee" can be found in the records and on the maps of that period, clear across the western half of the continent. The trail from Pueblo, Colorado, to Fort Bridger, Wyoming, via Bridger's Pass, followed by the famous Overland Mail in 1862, was well known as the "Cherokee Trail."² This was approximately the same route followed by the Cherokees of Brown's party. The former town of Latham, Colorado, on the Cache La Poudre River, an important point on the Overland Mail Route, was first called " Cherokee City." Present day maps still carry the name of "Cherokee Park" in Northern Colorado, while those of Western Wyoming show the town of "Cherokee" on the Union Pacific Railroad. Both of these places were in the vicinity of the old Cherokee Trail. In 1850, there was the "Cherokee Cutoff," a short route from the Upper Humboldt River to the Feather River country in North

²Grant Foreman, Early Trails Through Oklahoma, Chronicles of Oklahoma. Vol. III, No. 2, pp. 110-2; LeRoy R. Hafen, The Overland Mail, (Arthur H. Clark Co. 1926), p. 230; Captain Randolph B. Marcey, The Prairie Traveler, p. 4. Captain Marcy's description of the "Cherokee Trail" in 1859 was as follows: "Another road which takes its departure from Fort Smith and passes through the Cherokee country, is called the 'Cherokee Trail.' It crosses Grand River at Fort Gibson, and runs a little north of west, to the Verdigris River, thence up the valley of this stream on the north side for 80 miles, when it crosses the river, and, taking a northwest course, strikes the Arkansas River near old Fort Mann, on the Santa Fe trail; thence it passes near the base of Pike's Peak, and follows down Cherry Creek, from its source to its confluence with the South Platte, and from thence over the mountains into Utah, and on to California via Fort Bridger and Salt Lake City."

Central California.³ There was also the mining camp or town of "Cherokee" in the northern gold field near the Feather River.⁴

Thus, the journal of John Lowery Brown is valuable and interesting as an original record both in the history of immigration to California and in the history of the Cherokees. It is a rare document that helps to tell Oklahoma's part in the story of the mirage of the Golden West, the great gold rush of more than three quarters of a century ago.

[Flyleaf ]	JOURNAL KEPT BY J. L. BROWN OF THE
	CHEROKEE NATION
	ROUTE
	FROM GRAND SALINE (C. N.) TO
	CALIFORNIA JUNE 3d, 1850

20 April	Left Mrs Packs & came to Mrs Gilbreaths—12 miles⁵
21 "	Lay by all day—
22 "	Brought the waggon to Lewis Meltons. Staid at Grandfathers—10 miles
23 "	Came on by to Tahlequah and on to Mothers—1 mile
24 "	Lay by all day
25 "	Started with the waggon and left it & came on to Grand River—25 miles [?]⁶

³Kimbell Webster, The Gold Seekers of '49, (Standard Book Company, Manchester, N. H., 1917), p. 98.

⁴Hubert Howe Bancroft, History of California, Vol. VI, p. 368.

⁵Mrs. Pack's home was about a mile east of Stillwell on the side of a hill. Elizabeth Lowery, a niece of Chief George Lowery, married William Shorey Pack; thus this family was related to John L. Brown.—Information from Mr. George W. Mayes, of the Cherokee Nation, now living in Oklahoma City; also, Emmet Starr, History of the Cherokee Indians, p. 367. Muddy Spring, located near Stillwell, in Adair County, was a rendezvous for emigrants on their way to California during the gold rush.—Information from Dr. Grant Foreman, of Muskogee.

⁶This crossing was near the noted salt spring, the Grand Saline, located about a mile south of the present town of Salina, in Mayes County. Washington Irving, durng his visit to Oklahoma in 1832, mentioned this crossing in his journal, describing the scene—"a beautiful, clear river—group of Indian nymphs half-naked on banks." He also described Colonel Auguste P. Chouteau's residence near the Grand Saline. (The Irving Journals, published by the Bibliophile Society, Boston, 1919. Vol. III, p. 139.) Dr. Grant Foreman has called attention to the fact that this crossing on Grand River became such an important rendezvous for emigrants to California and a flourishing trading point of which Lewis Ross's store was the principal establishment, that a postoffice was established there on June 11, 1849. It was called Grand Saline, Robert D. Ross being appointed the first postmaster.

26 "	the waggon came on with Adairs. I staid at Clarks [word illegible, faded]
27 "	Crossed the waggon [corner Journal worn, writing faded]
[2]
April 28 15 miles	Left Grand River in company with T. F. Taylors⁷ & D. J. Bells⁸ waggons. Camped on the first prong of Pryors creek, which shall be called—Camp 1st⁹

⁷Thomas Fox Taylor, born in East Tennessee, in 1818, was the eldest son of Richard and Ellen McDaniel Taylor. Richard Taylor, in his turn eldest son of Charles Fox and Jennie Walker Taylor, was a prominent leader among his people, serving as assistant chief of the Cherokee Nation with John Ross from 1851-55. According to a tradition in the family, Charles Fox Taylor was the second son of an English noble by the name of Fox and his wife, Jennie Taylor, a Scotch woman. The parents separated, the eldest son remaining with the father and being vested, by right of primogeniture, with the Fox estate. The second son remained with his mother and was known as Charles Fox Taylor. The mother married a second time, immigrated to America, bringing Charles with her, and settled near the Cherokee Nation East. Charles made friends among the Cherokee people and married Jennie Walker, a granddaughter of Ghigau or Beloved Woman of the Cherokees. The Ghigau (also known by the English name of Nancy Ward) was conferred great power by the Cherokee Council for her bravery in a battle with the Creeks. She has been described as a woman "of queenly and commanding presence and manners" her house being "furnished in a style suitable to her high dignity."

Thomas Fox Taylor attended the mission schools in his nation and the Nashville and Knoxville colleges of Tennessee. He became well known as a politician in the Cherokee Nation even as a young man, and was especially noted as an orator, fluent in both the English and the Cherokee. His first public office was that of clerk and interpreter of the Cherokee Council. Later when elected member of the Cherokee National Committee from Going Snake District, he was also elected president of the Committee. In the organization of Colonel Stand Watie's Cherokee Mounted Rifle Regiment, near Fort Wayne on July 12, 1861, for the Confederate service, Thomas Fox Taylor was elected lieutenant colonel of the regiment. Colonel Taylor and several of his command were killed in a skirmish between Confederate and Federal troops on Bayou Menard the morning of July 27, 1862.

That he took an active and leading part in the Cherokee parties to California in 1850 is shown by frequent mention of his name in Brown's journal, which bears out statements appearing in an old biography (O'Beirne, The Indian Territory: Its Chiefs, Legislators and Leading Men. pp. 460-1): "Thomas Fox Taylor was not only a natural orator, but a brilliant wit, and the center of attraction wherever he went. He was a dashing officer, and invariably the leader when any adventure or enterprise was to be undertaken. Thomas Fox Taylor's name will be long remembered among his people."

⁸Devereaux Jarrette Belle was the son of John and Charlotte Adair Bell. His sister, Sallie Caroline, was the wife of General Stand Watie. His nephew, Lucien B. (Hooley) Bell, took an active part in the affairs of the Indian Territory and held many positions of trust in the Cherokee Nation beginning with 1870. D. Jarrette Bell's wife, Joliette Lewis Vann, was considered the most beautiful girl of her day in the Cherokee Nation. She accompanied him on the journey overland to California in 1850. One day his company met up with a band of Cheyenne Indians, whose chief was so impressed with Juliette's beauty that he offered fifty ponies for her, wanting to buy her and make her his wife. The young husband refused of course, stating with emphasis that he would not trade his wife to anyone for any consideration.—Information from Mr. George W. Mayes, of Oklahoma City. (Dr. Emmet Starr's History of the Cherokee Indians [The Warden Company, 1921] has been consulted for genealogical material in the footnotes of this article.)

⁹Camp 1st was just west of the present town of Adair, in Mayes County.

" 29 18 miles	Camp 2. Camped on Salt creek near Mrs. Coodeys
" 30 8 miles	Crossed Verdigrice River and camped on the west Bank (Camp 3d)—¹⁰
May 1st	Lay by all day—
" 2	Traveled 15 miles. 10 waggns alltogather. camped on a small creek (camp 4)¹¹
" 3d	Traveled 8 miles. 12 waggons [?] alltogather (Camp 5th
" 4th	Travelled 15 miles [corner Journal worn] camped in two hollows " " " the gap of the " " "
[3]
May 5th (Camp 7)	Traveled 15 miles and caught up with the company commanded by Clem McNair. a war party of Osages came into camp, causing great excitement¹²

¹⁰Near Coody's Bluff in Nowata County.

¹¹Camp 4 was on the waters of California Creek, Nowata County. The name of California Creek and that of its branch "Mormon Creek," are reminders of the days when the California emigrating parties and, also, some parties of Mormons, who passed through the Indian Territory in early times, traveled along the trail in this vicinity.

¹²Captain Clement Vann McNair's party had been at this point for some days awaiting the arrival of other emigrating companies expected up the trail from the Grand Saline. (Information from Dr. Grant Foreman)

Clement Vann McNair was the youngest child of David and Delilah Amelia Vann McNair. Mr. Benjamin Gold, the father of Mrs. Elias Boudinot, in writing his brother in New England (1829), told of visiting the home of David McNair when traveling through the Cherokee Nation now within the boundaries of the State of Georgia (Emmet Starr, Early History of the Cherokees, p. 109). Mr. Gold wrote, "We then traveled twenty miles and came to a Mr. McNair's, a white man who had married a Cherokee Indian woman, sister of Mr. Joseph Vann, another Cherokee chief. (Mr. Vann was not a chief, this was a common error with people that did not know.—Starr's note.) He [McNair] had a beautiful white house, and about six or seven hundred acres of the best land you ever saw, and Negroes enough to tend it and clear as much more as he pleased. He raised this year about five thousand bushels of corn, and it would make you feel small to see his situation."

Clement Vann McNair was elected solicitor, or attorney, of Saline District by the Cherokee National Council in 1841-2. He was elected member of the Senate from Saline District for the term 1845-7. He served as delegate from the Cherokee Nation to Washington in 1846. His first wife was Susannah Martin, daughter of Judge John Martin, who was the first treasurer and later the first chief justice of the Cherokee Nation. His second wife was Mrs. Martha Ann (Childers) Smith whom he married in California. He never returned to the Cherokee Nation.

" 6	our crowd of 12 waggons Joined and were numbered into McNairs Company the company numbering 32 waggons travelled 10 miles. Left Tom Taylor and 5 men to wait for another crowd Camp 8—
" 7	Lay By all day—
" 8	Traveled 10 miles. camped [?] By a spring of very cold [?] Camp 9th
[4]
May 9th	Traveled 20 miles Camp 10th on what was supposed to be waters of Arkansas River—
" 10	Started after dinner and Traveled five miles Camp 11th—
" 11	Traveled 18 miles. Crossed a creek about 12 oclock and camped at night on a large Creek, the Bottom of which was covered with walnut growth. Camp 12—
" 9 Capt C [?] regimen	The Company was joined on Thursday by, five waggons and 21 men, which [corner Journal worn] sed the number of grew [corner Journal worn]
[5]
	to 105 men, 15 negroes and 12 females all under the command of Clem McNair—
May 12	Lay By (Sunday)
" 13	Lay By
" 14	Traveled about 15 miles crossed two creeks and camped at night on Shoavs's Creek Camp 13th—
" 15	Traveled all day without any timber in sight 20 miles and without any water until night [corner Journal worn] Camped at Evans old camp ground¹³

¹³"Captain L. Evans of Fayetteville, Arkansas, headed a party of forty wagons and one hundred and thirty persons from Washington County, Arkansas, and the Cherokee Nation April 20, 1849," for California.—Foreman, Early Trails Through Oklahoma, op cit., p. 110.

[6]	used Buffalo Chips for wood. this is the place that Capt Evans called Buffalo Chip Camp Camp 14—
May 16th still using Buffalo chips for wood Great excite- ment in camp danger of dividing	Traveled all day No timber in sight yet. Made 15 miles Camped on a sluggish stream of very cold water the same place that Evans camped at Camp 15¹⁴
" 17	Today at 12 oclock Traveled 10 miles and came to the Santa fee Trail to Independence¹⁵
[7]
18 miles to- day	Traveled about 8 miles after entering the Trace and camped on a small stream of water, Turkey creek. still using Buffalo chips for wood Camp 16th This morning the company devided. part of the company, 19 waggons, started ahead, independent of Clem McNairs. we passed them this evening about 2 miles it is said to be 175 miles from this place to Independence & five hundred and fifty miles to Santa fee—
[8]
May 18 Camp 17th	Traveled 15 miles and camped on Little Arks. in sight of the other company, which is now commanded by J. H. Wolff¹⁶ Evans calls it 125 miles from this place to Fort Mann and 390 miles to Peueblo—

¹⁴The organization of emigrant parties to California for protection, discipline and method in traveling was very important. Officers, consisting of a captain and, sometimes, a first and a second lieutenant, were elected by the members of the party. The position of captain called for a man having courage, determination, patience and a knowledge of human nature, in addition to a thorough acquaintance with life on the frontier. The hardships encountered on the long journey across the continent often brought about discontent among his followers. Sometimes disputes and quarrels arose, with the various members taking sides, causing divisions of the party on the trail. Such divisions were attended by many dangers, for the guard of both parties was thus weakened and there was the possibility of shortage of food and supplies in the wilderness.

¹⁵At the fork with the Santa Fe Trail, Captain Evans had set up a large stone marked "To Fayetteville, Ark., 300 miles-Capt. Evans' Com'y, May 12, 1849."-Foreman, op. cit. p. 111.

¹⁶When he had departed for California, John H. Wolfe left his young wife, Elizabeth Saunders Wolfe, at home with their infant son, Richard Murrel. He said he was going to California in search of gold so that he would be able to give his young son every educational advantage. However, he was an old man when he came back to the Cherokee Nation on a visit, his first since leaving in 1850. In the meanwhile, Richard had grown up, married and had a family of his own. He had proven himself a young man of character and ability and was largely self-educated. He was elected to various offices of trust in the Cherokee Nation and served as delegate to Washington for four years. After visiting his son and old home, John H: Wolfe returned to California to look after some property interests there, but it was not long until he died and was buried in his adopted state.

" 19	Sunday. Lay Bye—
" 20th Camp 18	Traveled 18 miles and camped on Cow Creek two waggons from the other train joined us this morning we number 20 waggons & one Carryall. Large heard of Buffalo in sight today. the other train passed on ahead
[9]
May 21st	Lay Bye all day¹⁷
" 22 Arks. River	Traveled about 20 miles & camped on Wallnut creek Camp 19
" 23	Lay Bye all day. Large heard of Buffalo & grass scarce
" 24 Camp 20	Traveled 20 miles. passed pawnee Rock¹⁸ and
" 25	camped on ash cr. grass bad— Traveled 18 miles, crossed Pawnee fork. quite a large stream with high Banks. camped on Arks River. Camp 21
" 26	(Sunday) Lay Bye all day. Captain T. F. Taylors company consisting of eight horse waggons came up with us today with the intention of joining us— [Note on left hand page, opposite page 9] Untill the awakening Trump of the Archangel Shall Summon them from a sleeping oblivion into the bright presence of our heavenly father—
[10]
May 27 according to	Lay Bye all day a Train of ox waggons, 20 waggons, came up this evening. A comp [?] were

¹⁷Crowded in the upper corner of the page above this entry in the journal appear the words "Camp 19." This was an evident error for the party were still in Camp 18, "laying by," on May 21. Brown corrected this in the entry for the following day, listing the next camp on Walnut Creek "Camp 19," the party having traveled twenty miles on May 22.

¹⁸Pawnee Rock is in the southeastern part of Barton County, Kansas.

Evans 3	visited by 9 Arapahoes Indians who camped in sight—
" 28	Traveled 15 miles and camped on the Ark-Riv. Camp 22—
" 29	T. F. Taylors company was admited into McNairs co this morning an election was held for Lieutenants T. F. Taylor was elected first, and J. M. Reace second Lieutenant today we traveled 18 mile camped on the River Camp 23—
[11]
May 30th	Traveled 25 miles. passed the Ruins of Ft. Mann¹⁹ and camped 2 miles above on the Bank of the River Camp 24th—
May 31 Camp 25	Traveled 25 miles. came to the crossing of the Santa fee Road Maj. FitzPatrick, Indian Agent,²⁰ was there paying out annuities to the different tribes—

¹⁹About eight miles west of present Dodge City, Kansas, were the ruins, many years ago, of an old adobe fort called Fort Mann. It was also called Fort Atkinson.—Frank A. Blackmar, Kansas: A Cyclopedia of State History, Vol. I, pp. 667-8.

²⁰The meeting with Major Fitzpatrick occurred at the Lower Crossing of the Arkansas, near the present town of Cimarron, Gray County, Kansas. Here the Santa Fe Trail forked, one branch crossing the river and leading to the Southwest across the Panhandle of Oklahoma. This was known as the Cimarron route of the Santa Fe Trail. Brown's party took the other branch of the Trail, following the Arkansas River on the north side to Bent's Fort.

Major Thomas Fitzpatrick was U. S. Indian Agent for the tribes living in the region of the Upper Platt and the Upper Arkansas rivers. In February, 1850, he set out from Fort Laramie (Wyoming) to hold a series of councils with the Indians. In May, he arrived at a point on the Arkansas, called the "Big Timber," where he met up with a large gathering of Indians, representatives from nearly every tribe of the Upper Arkansas, accompanied by a party of traders. Remaining here about a month, he then proceeded to the Lower Crossing of the Arkansas, where he held the council referred to in Brown's journal. Mention of this meeting appears in Major Fitzpatrick's report to the Superintendent of Indian Affairs, dated September 24, 1850, from St. Louis, as follows: "I then continued down the Arkansas river [from the 'Big Timber'] by slow and easy marches, in company with the traders and all the Indians, until we arrived at the crossing of the great Santa Fe thoroughfare. Here we made another halt until the 10th of June, on which day, after disbanding the Indians, and re-commending each band to proceed to their own proper hunting grounds, I took my departure for this place. * * * The following are the names of the different tribes which assembled with me at the crossing of the Arkansas, all of whom seemingly entertain the best and most friendly feelings toward us: the Sioux, Cheyennes, Arripahoes, Kiawas, and Apaches. The Apaches here mentioned are not those of New Mexico which have been ravaging the country for years; they are a band of fifty lodges, that have for many years lived with the Kiawas and Comanches, and have aided them in all their wars against both Mexicans and Americans. Those tribes herein mentioned are very formidable, and the most warlike on this continent, and occupy, indiscriminately, the country [including what is now Western Oklahoma], for several hundred miles, through which all the great thoroughfares to New Mexico, Oregon, and California pass." The Comanches had not attended the meeting, sending word that they feared the cholera raging the country at the time, and forwarding their expressions of friendship and good feeling toward the Americans.—Report of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs for 1850, pp. 52-3.

Thomas Fitzpatrick's career ccvered the period from the opening of the rich fur region west of the Rocky Mountains in the early 1820's to the beginning of regular settlement of the Kansas-Nebraska country. A native of Ireland, born in 1799, he came to the United States at about the age of seventeen. One of a good family, with thorough schooling up to the time of his leaving home, together with a strong physique, an alert mind, and a talent for swiftly appraising a situation, distinguished him among the "Mountain Men" of his time. As a trapper, trader, Indian fighter, head of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, guide, explorer, and Indian agent, his name may be counted among the first of the roster that listed such men as Kit Carson and James Bridger. From an accident with a rifle, Fitzpatrick's left hand was maimed when still a young man. Afterward he was known on the frontier and among the Indians as "Broken Hand." In 1845, he was the official guide of the expedition sent out by the Government, under the command of Lieutenant James William Abert, to explore the country now included in the Panhandle of Oklahoma. This expedition is notable in Oklahoma history for being the first to travel overland from Bent's Fort to the Canadian, thence down that stream to Fort Gibson with a train of wagons. The life of Thomas Fitzpatrick has been recounted in the biographical volume Broken Hand, by LeRoy R. Hafen and W. J. Ghent (The Old West Publishing Company, Denver, 1931).

June 1st	Started at 12 oclock and Traveled 10 miles. Camped on the Bank of the River Camp 26—
" 2nd Sunday	Traveled about 25 miles Camped on the River Camp 27— Today at noon T. J. Mims & Co. Caught up with the crowd 12 days from home
[12]
June 3d	Lay Bye (Monday)²¹
" 4	Traveled about 20 miles and camped on Bank of the River in a cottonwood grove. very hard rain Camp 28—
" 5	Traveled 18 miles camped on the Bank of River Camp 29—
" 6	Traveled 25 miles camped on the River. Camp 30th—
" 7	Traveled 20 miles and camped on Bank of River Camp 31st—

²¹June 3 is the date that Brown wrote on the flyleaf of his journal. He must have turned back and written on the flyleaf on that date, since the first entry in the journal was dated April 20. Or, perhaps, he began his journal on June 3, taking time while the company "lay by" at Camp 27 to make the entries from memory or from notes kept elsewhere since leaving the Cherokee Nation. If he did begin his journal on June 3, had he purchased the little leather bound notebook from the traders who were with Major Fitzpatrick on the Arkansas? If so, this notebook itself has had a remarkable history.

" 8 Camp 32	Traveled about 20 miles today. about 10 oclock passed a grave of Indians who fell in Battle sign posted ¾ miles to the Right of the Road
[13]
June 9th	Sunday Lay Bye part of the day. Started 12 oclock and traveled 15 miles. Camped on the Bank of the River. Camp 33—
" 10th the snow mountains that we saw today proved to be the Spanish Peak	this morning saw mountains at a great distance covered with snow supposed to be a spur of the Rocky Mountains. at noon reached Bents Port. Traveled on until night. Made 25 miles. Camped on the River. Camp 34—²²
" 11	Traveled 25 miles Camped on the River Camp 35—
" 12	Today made 20 miles Camped on Bank of River high mountains to the left covered with snow Camp 36—
[14]
June 13 Camp 37	today snow toped mountains in view plainly. Traveled 12 miles and at noon reached Peueblo found J. H. Woolfs company there preparing to "Pack"—
" 14	Lay Bye all day. The ox Train consisting of 33 waggons came up and camped near. at night had a big Dance—
" 15	Traveled North along the north Bank of a large Creek²³ which emptys into Ark R Below Peueblo. Left the Pack company preparing for Packing. Made 15 miles. Camp 38—

²²Bent's Fort was on the north side of the Arkansas River, above the mouth of the Purgatory River, in Southeastern Colorado. It was founded in 1829 by William Bent and became a well-known establishment in the trade of the Santa Fe Trail. The route followed by Brown's party via Brent's Fort thence north through Colorado into Wyoming was an old Indian trail, used by early day trappers and traders in the Rocky Mountain region. The Spanish Peaks, in Southern Colorado, were noted landmarks, known by the Indians of that region as "Wah-to-yah," the Breasts of the World.—Hafen and Ghent, op. cit. p. 173.

²³Fountain Creek, Colorado.

" 16
today J. J.
May of Cane
Hill, Arks
quitt the
pack Co—and
joined my
mess

Traveled along the creek 15 miles. Camp 39—No buffalo since the 30th of May. Bear sign Plenty. one killed today

[15]
June 17	Traveled north, leaving the Creek. Traveled over Sand hills, pine Timber. passed Pikes Peak which is covered with snow. camped at cold spring of water-made today about 20 miles Camp 40th—²⁴
" 18 today we crossed the dividing ridge be- tween the Arks & Platt	Traveled 25 miles. Camped on a Bold Running, Clear stream of water. waters of the Platt. Good grass & wood Camp 41—²⁵
" 19 very hard storm this evening hale from the size of a Birds to a hens egg	Continued down the above mentioned Creek 20 miles Good Grass, water & timber Camp 42—

²⁴Camp 40th was in the vicinity of the present city of Colorado Springs.

²⁵Cherry Creek, Colorado.

[16]
June 20th ten miles to- day	Took a left hand trail down the Creek, which was made by Capt Edmonson about two weeks ago. about 10 oclock came to the South fork of Platt River. Made a Raft and commenced crossing the waggons. camped on the Bank of Platt. Camp 43—²⁶
" 21 we called this Ralstons Creek be- cause a man of that name found gold here	finished crossing at 2 oclock left the Platt and traveled 6 miles to Creek Good water grass & timber Camp 44—²⁷
" 22	Lay Bye. Gold found.
" 23	this morning all except 3 messes who traveled on concluded to stay and examine the Gold. Bell, Dobkins & R. J. Meigs traveled on
[17]
June 24th only 14 waggons snow toped mountains in view today	Left Ralstons Creek and made 26 miles. Rainy & very mudy. Camped on creek plenty water, wood, & grass Camp 45—
" 25	Traveled 16 miles and camped on a Creek. plenty good water, wood & grass Camp 46—
" 26 Black Tailed Deer killed today Cashla poodra	Traveled 15 miles and came to a large Creek where we found the ox train and the horse wagons that had left us preparing to "Raft." good water, wood & grass Camp 47—

²⁶This crossing and Camp 43 were on the present site of Denver, Colorado.

²⁷The mention of the discovery of gold by a member of this party of Cherokees, on Ralston's Creek (a branch of Clear Creek), is an interesting incident. Dr. Grace Raymond Hebard in Pathbreakers (Arthur H. Clark Co., 1933), p. 204, wrote that some Cherokees on their way home from California, in 1858, discovered gold on Cherry Creek. Colorado was practically an unknown country at that time. After returning to their nation the Cherokees organized a mining company and went back to the Rocky Mountains the same year to dig for gold. Soon afterward, numerous parties were formed by other prospectors for trips into the mountains, marking the beginning of the regular search for gold in Colorado.

[18]
June 27	Lay Bye all day. finished a Raft
" 28 Cashe La Poudra.	this morning Both Trains united and "Rafted" togather. finished, and Camped on north Bank of River Clem McNair having resigned, T. F. Taylor the Lieutenant took command of the Co as Captain Camp 48—
" 29	Early start. Traveled up north Bank of the Cashe La Poudra River 3 miles, when we left the River turned north into a Pass through the hills. 12 miles since morning and we came to a small creek the first water since Leaving the River. This evening passed [19] over rough Road. Camped²⁸ half a mile to the right of the road on a hill by the side of a large, steep Red Mt. after leaving the Road to Camp, we crossed Evans old Trace, which had just been passed over by Capt Olivers ox train, whom we left at the River Platt, and who had continued down that stream on Evans Trace. & we making a Cutoff being delayed at the Cashe La Poudra in crossing, he had got ahead of us. Made today 20 miles Camp 49 [Notes on left hand pages opposite pages 18 &19.] Sayings of the Boys while wrafting the Platt—

	No one speak but the Captain— Will you hold your tongue you scoundrel— hold on, pitch on to that raft fellows a dozen or two of you—push it off—now she rides— Let her swing— hold to the rope to the right you Rogues—Run out to the right with the rope— Cordelle there on the Left Rope. pitch ashore my lads— all Right— Let her come —now she Rides— Get off the Rope there Behind —I cant pull the Raft and you on the Rope. Get away Bill from behind, you'r so short, you pull

²⁸The crossing of the Cache La Poudre River was in the vicinity of Fort Collins, Larimer County, Colorado. Camp 49 was in the neighborhood of the Virginia Dale. Captain John C. Fremont in his Report of an Exploring Expedition to the Rock Mountains, 1842-3-4, p. 122, described the country along this route. He wrote that after crossing the Cache La Poudre and entering a smoother country, his party "traveled along a kind of vallon, bounded on the right by red buttes and precipices * *."

	down instead of along— who did that? There now the rope is Broke— Back she goes— pull her up— stop— that fellows mouth and hear what the Captain says— I'll spill you into the River the first thing you know— Look out I'll see if I can throw a rock over. who saw a Kan Kaven he did? who killed a deer with a Black tail oh it was a sheep— no it was a Goat— No it was a Donkey"— That was a good one by Gum— George pull my finger why didn't they marry. now is the time to hold your tater— Into it Dugan— &c & c
[20]
June 30th wild sage	Sunday. Traveled West today over tolerably good Road plenty Water. Camped on a small Running stream foot of hills. high winds & cold. Made today 20 miles Camp 50—
July 1st	Entered the Larrima Plain. Left Evans Trace & followed the Trace made by Edmonsons Co. which runs to the left of Evan's— passed a large Lake, full of fish. Traveled across the L. Plains and Camped in a hollow, at a good spring— the ox Co's near. Made today 25 Camp 51—
[21]
July 2 today we cross the wa- ters of west Platt. Many cold springs	Crossed Larrima River. Struck into the hills. Pine & better Cottonwood timber. the Road had been opened by Edmonsons Co. hilly Country. Muddy, Boggy Road in the timber, which was very hard pulling for the Mules. Camped at foot of hill in a hollow. the ox Company's near. plenty timber and water. Grass scarce. Made miles 16 Camp 52—
" 3 wild sage today there	Traveled to the left through a pass. Entered a plain & turned to the Right down the North fork of the [22] Platt. Came to the crossing at noon.²⁹

²⁹The pass was on the upper course of Pass Creek, a tributary of the North Platte, in Carbon County, Wyoming. In describing "the pass of the Medicine Butte" (Ibid. p. 125), Captain Fremont said that here was a broad trail, leaving which he traveled "over a plain on the west side of the pass, where the road was terribly rough with artemisia" and ravines, before arriving at a ford on the North Platte. Brown's party crossed the North Platte near the mouth of Sage Creek. The Overland Mail Route to California crossed the river in this vicinity from 1861-69.—Hafen, op. cit., p. 231 and accompanying map.

was a R. M. Goat killed. Ten miles to- day	found 2 small rafts which had been left by Edmonsons Co. & the Pack Co. Home's Co. took the rafts and commenced crossing. Capt's Taylor & Oliver Joined their forces togather and built a Raft. we all camped on the River.Camp 53—
" 4th	Crossed the River and traveled 6 miles. Camped on small Branch. Water & grass. wild sage for fuel. Capt holmes Co. 4 miles ahead on creek. good water, grass, & wood about ten oclock
[23]
I lost one horse & one mule	tonight about 25 head of horses & mules, were stolen from our Co. by Indians, and 4 or 5 head from homes Co making 30 alltogather Camp 54—
" 5 a Spanish Boy was mis- taken for an Indian to- night and shot by one of the guards. his life is dis- paired of	a Co of men under Capt Taylor went in pursuit of the stolen horses. Our Train & that of Capt Olivers which came up this morning moved on 4 miles to the creek where Capt homes company were. Camp 55—
" 6	The Train Lay By all day
" 7 Bad Travel- ing on ac- count of wild sage	today the Train moved [24] on assisted by the Ox Co and camped on the first large creek, which was called Eagle Creek. 20 miles. this evening Capt Taylors Co. returned without overtaking the "Rogues." they found one horse, belonging to Capt Taylor, having been left or lost by the Indians. Camp 56—
July 8 very Bad Road	Today the two ox Co. and our Train move on togather. only ten horse teams, the rest ox, ours & Olivers train & traveled 20 miles, and Camped on small Branch ½ mile to the rite of the Road good water, grass & wood Capt homes Co moved father on ahead— Camp 57—

[25]
July 9 very Bad Traveling on account of Bad Road & wild sage	today at 10 oclock we crossed the dividing Ridge³⁰ between the waters of the Atlantic & Pacific Oceans. Bad Road Traveled 20 miles. crossed Elk head creek, and camped on small branch tolerable good grass Camp 58—
" 10	Traveled 25 miles today without finding water untill night, when we camped on a Branch of Elk head creek.³¹ Very Bad Road. Grass scarce & water not good. Camp 59—
[26]
July 11th	Today we had very good Road for a few miles and then the rest of the way, the worst Road that we have Traveled over since we left home. No water or Grass or Timber. The Road Dry & Dusty & pached. No game, Sage Grass scarce. at Sun down we reached the dry Bed of a large Creek where we got water by digging holes. the water tasted of Salaratas & salt. Grass scarce. Made today 20 miles— Camp 60—

Graves we have passed since Intersecting the Independence Route
1. C. McDaniel — July 25, 1850
2. J. A. Drake Died at this place July 15, 1850

³⁰Bridger's Pass, about twenty miles southwest of Rawlins, Wyoming.—J Cecil Alter, James Bridger, p. 224. The first notable expedition of traders and trappers that followed the trail west from the Cache La Poudre via the Laramie Plain, the North Fork of the Platte and the pass (afterward called Bridger's Pass) was that of William Henry Ashley, in 1825. Thomas Fitzpatrick was one of the leading trappers of this party.—Hafen and Ghent, op. cit., p. 51.

³¹Elk Head Creek was a branch (possibly Muddy Creek) of what is now Little Snake River, in Southern Wyoming. Little Snake River is a tributary of the Yampa, in Northern Colorado. The stream called Elk Head Creek by Brown was evidently not the present Elk Head Creek, a branch of the Yampa shown on present day maps, lying farther south in Colorado. Captain Fremont said (op. cit., p. 124) that the stream called Little Snake River by the trappers, of that time, was called "Yampah" by the Snake Indians. He preferred the Indian name and entered it on his map accompanying his report (q. v.). He indicated what is now Little Snake River as Elk Head River. "Yampah" was the name of a plant, the root of which was used for food by the Snake Indians. They resorted every year to the region of the Yampah or Little Snake River to gather the plant. For references in regard to the confusion of Elk Head, Little Snake, and Yampah rivers, see Fremont, op. cit., p. 280; also, Frederick S. Dellenbaugh, Fremont and '49 (G. P. Putnam's Sons, 1914), p. 274.

	3. Horatio Morse July 17, 1850 Marcy Co. Mo. 4. M. Harris died July 18, 1850, Franklin Co Dublin Ohio 5. A Grave on the left side of the road with some writing on the head board, stating that he had been found by the road so [word illegible] that they could not ascertain who he was or where he was from— dated 19th July, 1850 & signed An Emigrating Company—
[27]
July 12 Camp 61	We traveled 5 miles and came to where Capt Home's Co. were camped which was 1½ miles from the Yamper River.³² A great many Indians were coming into camp as we got there which caused great excitement. They came up Friendly. The proved to be the Snake Indians. Capt Homes reported that he had been 8 or 10 miles and could find no water or grass, so we all concluded to stay where we were we carelled togather. [word illegible] carried our stock to the R to graze and packed water from the same place 1½ miles
[28]
July 13 horses & ox- en failing	Traveled today 25 miles very Rough Road. No grass wood or water. Traveled untill sometime in the night when we came to Sulphur Springs. Not fit for man or Beast to drink. No grass
" 14	Camp 62—
" 15	Traveled 5 miles and came to Salt water with little grass. Camped. Camp 63 Man & Beast sick. Caused by drinking the water that we have been drinking for several days Traveled today 20 miles and came to a narrow swift³³ Branch of good cold water with tolerable good grass Camp 64—

³²Undoubtedly what is now Little Snake River.

³³Bitter Creek, Western Wyoming. The rough, dry country over which the party had traveled was the Red Desert. The route since leaving the North Platte, via Bridger's Pass, Sulphur Spring, etc., was approximately that of the Overland Mail in 1862.—Hafen, op. cit., p. 231 and accompanying map; also, Grace Raymond Hebard and E. A. Brininstool, The Bozeman Trail (Arthur H. Clark Co., 1922) Vol. 1, pp. 71 and 120, and accompanying map.

[29]
July 16	Lay Bye—
" 17	Traveled 20 miles over tolerable good Road. Camped in deep hollow on little Branch. Good grass. Sage for fuel Snow mountains in view on ahead Camp 65—
" 18	Several cases of sickness in the Co. Very Rough Road Camp on Branch of Green River, one mile from the River Made today 20 miles wild sage as usual Camp 66—
[30]
July 19 2 miles to- day lay Bye	Home's Co moved 3 miles to the crossing of Green River. Olivers & taylors Co. Camped along the River. Great many preparing to "pack" from this place Camp 67 499 miles from Peueblo to Green R This is the most desolate looking country that I ever saw. Since we crossed the deviding Ridge on the 9th the Ground has been dry & parched & very dusty. Salt water
[31]
	Except now and then you find good water Grass very scarce. No game. Nothing much Except wild sage growing in this part of the Country Wild and Rugged hills (very Bad Roads)—
" 20 we lay Bye	Today Capt Home's Co Rafted their waggons across the River. R. J. Meigs drowned one of his mules. —
" 21 lay Bye	Capt Olivers Co— Rafted over the River. Taylors Co. not crossed but preparing to pack—
[32]
" 22 lay Bye	This morning Capts Oliver & Home's Comps Traveled on. Capt. Taylors Co. here yet. Expect to cross the River tomorrow
" 23 lay Bye	This morning we commenced crossing the River By Riding our horses and Carrying the Packs on our shoulders as the water was very deep. by 12 oclock we were all safe across and camped on the west bank of Green River Camp 68—

	March 8, 1851 I owe J. B. Hunter $50
[33]
	Green River is about [blank] yards wide, with numerous Islands upon which Good Grass Grows into which we drove our horses & mules The Timber is cottonwood & willow. The water of the River is good, though not so cold as that of the Platt or other Mountain Streams which we crossed. The country along the Banks of the River is very rugged, looks Dreary & Desolate, with high Bold Bluffs on the west Bank—
[34]
" 24 Snow topped Mountains near by	This morning about 10 oclock the Pack Co. left Green River and Traveled Due west over very desolate looking country, Destitute of vegitation of any kind & water. After Traveling about 25 miles, we came to and camped on a small stream of Muddy & very Bad tasting water. Camp 69—
" 25	Today we traveled over country the same as before Rugged & Rough. No grass Bad water. after Traveling about 12 miles [35] we came to a large creek of good water, with plenty good grass. We stopped for the day, Clem McNair being sick. Camp 70—
" 26	Today we lay Bye McNair being unable to travel light showers, every day since we came to Green River
" 27 113 miles from this place to the Salt Lake Snow moun- tains to the Left many of springs of cold water	After Traveling this morning about 8 miles we came to Bridgers Ft. on Black Fork of Green River.³⁴ At this place [36] the Trace from Independence to the Salt Lake passes. a large Train of waggons were in sight bound for California. we were told by the Inhabitants at this place & also by Emegrants, that Thousands of persons were dying on the upper Rout which leads by Ft Hall the Colara. we were also told that about 8 miles ahead, Olivers Co had camped & one of the Cherokees belonging to the Train had died, they

12 miles from Bridger	could not recollect his name. we traveled on, came to the grave [37] By the side of Road & found, by some writing on a board, that it was Charles McDaniel who had died. we traveled on a few miles father & camped ½ mile to the left of the left of the Road. good water & grass Made today 20 miles Camp 71— we find this Trace to be crowded with Emegrants to the Gold diggins. We are har [d] ly ever out of sight of waggons
" 28 grave on the Bank J. A. Drake	Traveled 30 miles today crossed Bear Creek at noon. Camped ½ mile to [38] Right of the Road. Good water & grass. Camp 72—
" 29	we pass Graves, Dead cattle & horses almost every half mile— today we struck into a Narrow valley, with high Rockey Bluffs on the right of the Road and high hills on the left. Plenty of grass along the valley. Many springs of very cold water. we Traveled along the bank of a creek which runs through the valley, crossing it a Great many times³⁵
[39]
the Mormons have a toll bridge on this road	at evening we came to Webbers River, quite a large stream, good water & timber, grass scarce. At this place the Road Forks. The left hand is a cutoff to Salt Lake. We took the right hand which leads down the River, 2 miles & camped having made 30 miles Camp 73—
July 30th [40]	This morning we traveled down the River 1 mile & a half, when the Road crosses Turns to the left into a narrow valley. at noon we came to a large creek along the [word illegible] which we Traveled crossing very often. Late in the evening we reached the very steep top of a very high ridge we traveled a few miles father and campe[d] ½ mile

³⁴Fort Bridger was founded by James Bridger, the noted trapper and trader, in 1842. It was taken over by the Mormons in 1854. The site was leased by the Government in 1857, the fort being rebuilt and regularly garrisoned from 1858-90.—Alter, op. cit., pp. 170-8, 244-63, 295-328. Fort Hall was located in what is now Southeastern Idaho, east of the Snake River, on the Oregon Trail.

³⁵Echo Canyon and Red Fork Creek, Utah.

	to the left of the Road in a hollow. Good water, Timber & grass. Made today 30 miles Camp 74—
" 31	Traveled through deep winding hollow³⁶ at 12 oclock we reached the "Mormon City." 11 miles today to the City. we passed through the city, crossed the River Jordon one mile from town and camped on the River. Camp 75—
[41]
Aug 1st from this place we took the cuttoff Rout	Traveled 13 miles to the first water which is a large spring of water, which tastes a little salty, but is very good. plenty good grass, no timber. Camp 76—
" 2	Lay Bye
" 3	Traveled by the edge of the Lake. passed many salt Springs, at noon, 12 miles. we passed a mill belonging to the Mormons. at 3 oclock we came to good water & grass

at this place [refer to note on Aug. 1] there are two Routs to the diggins, one called the Northern Rout, down the Humbolt River, another called the "Cutoff heretofore traveled only with Pack animals but this Season, the Emegrants are going it with their waggons.³⁷ about 80 miles from the city, there is said to be a Desert Destitute of water or grass 75 miles wide, and which is covered with hard crust of Saleratus, which a shower of ten min[u]tes duration will render it impassable, though it never rains

³⁶Emigration Canyon before reaching Salt Lake City, Utah. Captain Marcy wrote in 1859, "Forage can be purchased here, as well as most articles the traveler may require, at high prices. There is no camping place within two miles of the city. It is best for those who encamp with animals to cross the Jordon River, or stop near the mouth of the canyon before entering the city."—Marcy, op. cit., p. 273.

³⁷The Northern Route headed around the north end of Salt Lake, thence west and south to the Humboldt or Mary's River in northern Nevada. The "Cutoff," the route followed by Brown's party, rounded the south end of lake, thence across the Salt Lake Desert west. It was approximately the same route traveled by the noted Donner Party that emigrated west in 1846-7.—Eliza P. Downer Houghton, The Expedition of the Donner Party (Arthur H. Clark Co. 1920), pp. 34-35.

[42]
Willow Spring	where we camped Olivers & Homes, ox Trains camped near Made today 27 miles Camp 77—
" 4	This morning a man died in Capt Olivers Train (Palmer) We lay Bye today
" 5 Elbow Spring	Traveled today 35 miles to good water and grass. found a great many emegrants here resting their horses & cattle, before entering the desert, also cutting grass to carry to feed their stock with Camp 78—
[43]
Aug 6	Lay Bye. Resting stock today about 2 oclock Mr. R. J. Meigs was taken sick with the colera, and about 9 oclock same evening he died—³⁸
" 7	this morning we Buried Meigs, Runaway Tuff & Russell, the two last having died this morning. we moved two miles back among the hills and Lay Bye. Meigses waggon & other effects were taken charge of by Mr. John Clark, which was the request of the (Deceased) Camp 79—

³⁸Return Jonathon Meigs (5th) was the son of Timothy and Elizabeth Holt Meigs, daughter of a.wealthy farmer from Virginia, who settled near Athens, Tennessee. Timothy Meigs was, private secretary and confidential clerk to his father, Colonel Return Jonathon Meigs, soldier of the American Revolution and well known agent to the Cherokees from 1801-23. Timothy Meigs' family lived on a farm near Charleston, Tennessee. It was there that Return Jonathon Meigs (5th) was born on April 3, 1812. He married Jane Ross, daughter of Chief John Ross, at Cleveland, Tennessee, and came to the Indian Territory with the chief's family in 1839. After arriving in their new home Mr. Meigs occupied a handsome brick home on the east side of the Illinois River not far from Park Hill. During the disorders in the Cherokee Nation that approached civil war, a party of Cherokees disguised as bandits came to his home November 2, 1845 and tried to kill him. Mr. Meigs and his family escaped but the attackers plundered and burned his home.

Mr. and Mrs. Meigs's son, the venerable Return Robert, still lives at Park Hill. He remembers the morning his father set out from home for California. During the family prayer, just before his departure, Return Jonathon Meigs read the Thirty-seventh Psalm, his favorite scripture. Today, his son and his family love that Psalm and read it often. On the morning of August 6, 1850, when the emigrating party were "laying by" at the Elbow Springs, they spent some time cutting grass to feed their stock in the desert. Mr. Meigs complained of not feeling well and asked the men to let him help with the work among the first. After cutting his share of grass, he raked it up and carried into camp. By that time, he was very ill and lay down on the heap of grass to rest. Within a few minutes, he passed away, saying that all was well with him.—Information from Mrs. Jennie Mathews, of Park Hill, Oklahoma, daughter of Return Robert Meigs.

	Joined our company which now consists of 53 persons—Dr. Barker attended Messers Meigs, Russell and Tuff during their sickness—
Deaths	Charles McDaniel—July 25 R. J. Meigs—August 6 Runaway Tough & Russell—Aug 7 Henry Street & Davis—Aug 17 G. M. Martin—Aug 17 Tolbert Bean—Sept 6th

	Aug. (Aug. 8 at this place we enter the desert) it is 70 miles across it without Grass or water and persons crossing it will have to travel day and night to get across. Many persons have perished with their animals while crossing. perhaps we may find water sooner than we expect, as we have had several showers of rain for the last two or three days
[44]
Aug 8 Sulphur Spring	the company started this morning. we cut grass and filled our canteens with good water, which is said to be all the good water we would get untill we crossed the Desert. We traveled untill Noon 15 miles when we came to Sulphur Spring, where we stoped we found no grass here Jack Hilldebrand was taken very sick with the cholera. The company were detained waiting on him, and in consequence of the Sickness pervading in the company & apprehending more the Company deemed it proper [45] to engage the Medical services of Dr. Barker though it was therefore agreed & stipulated that each member of the Company should pay the said Doct. on their arrival in the diggins or as soon after as possible the. Sum of Five Dollars & he the said Doct. is to attend to all cases of sickness that may occur in the Company Camp 80—
Aug 9	This morning Hildebrand was better though unable to travel on horseback. we therefore made [46] arrangements with J. M. Estell to haul him

	to California also to haul B. F. Trott (who was also sick) across the Desert.³⁹ at this place the Desert commences it is 85 miles from this S— Spring to where good water and grass is to be found. after making Suitable arrangements for the Sick of our Co— at four oclock A. M. [P. M.] we started the Road passed over hills & through winding hollows for a few miles when it entered the Desert
[47]	we traveled at the rate of four miles an hour. Good Road firm and hard. at two oelock in the morning we stopped to rest, & fed to the horses the grass which we had cut and packed since the morning of the 8th Slept, having made 40 miles. Camp 81
Aug 10	Started by sun rise having stopped about 3 hours to rest. We found (by daylight) the Desert to be covered with a hard crust resembling Salaratus, no grass or groath of any kind except wild sage now & then
[48] A great many Dead horses, Cattle & dogs which died for want of wa- ter. These springs are called Re- lief Springs	we Traveled Steadily. within 25 miles of the spring we came to where some Emegrants had waggons loaded with water which they had brought from the spring to sell to folks, as they came up they sold it for one dollar per gallon at four oclocli this evening we reached the Springs having Traveled 45 miles since morning without stopping & without water for our horses. Good water & Grass. Camp 82 this evening a young man of Dr Barkers mess died of the Diarear

³⁹Mr. George Mayes of Oklahoma City, tells the following story: Ben Trot set out to California on a fine horse which he highly prized. One day the company came upon a large herd of buffalo. Ben Trott and some men started out on their horses on the run, planning to separate a bunch of buffalo cows and calves fron the main herd and shoot come of the calves. Trott raced ahead of his companions. About that time, the buffaloes winded the hunters and began running away across the prairie, Trott right after them. Suddenly his horse stumbles and fell and sent him sprawling. The horse jumped up, ran off with the buffaloes and was never seen again. Trott jarred and mortified by the fall, just stoop and wept as he watched his horse disappear in the distance, much to the amusement of the other hunters.

[49]
Aug 11 Davis a white man & Henry Street a Seneca	today we lay Bye resting our horses. this morning G. M. Martin was taken very sick. about 12 oclock two men belonging to Capt Olivers train Died within a few minutes of each other and were both buried in one Grave today about 2 oclock G. M. Martin died.⁴⁰ after burying him the Co— removed up on to one of the Kanyons of the mountain about 3 miles distance. Good water & Grass. Camp 83— B. F. Trott came to us last evening quite unwell
50
Aug 12	today we lay Bye, waiting on C. V. McNair, B. F. Trott & others who were too unwell to travel—
Aug 13 35 miles since morn- ing	This morning several of our men being to weak to travel Dr. Barker and part of the Co— remained with them. and myself and the rest of the Co— traveled on about ten miles to a Spring of Good water. at this place, another Desert commences, which we had to travel During the night we remained at this place untill late in the evening when we started and [51] traveled on about 25

⁴⁰George M. Martin was the son of Samuel Martin, a half-brother of Judge John Martin, first chief justice of the Cherokee Nation. Among the Cherokees of the emigrating party, in 1850, who helped to bury every person who died on the way to California, was Dennis W. Bushyhead. He remained in California until 1867. After returning to his old home, he was elected and served as chief of the Cherokee Nation (1879-86). His brother, Edward W., or Ned, Bushyhead had gone to California in 1849, settling finally at San Diego and never returning to live in the Cherokee Nation. He served at one time as chief of police in San Diego and also was elected sheriff of San Diego County. Mr. A. Taylor, of Muskogee, tells of visiting Ned Bushyhead at his home in San Diego, in 1892. One day while watching a review of the U. S. fleet in San Diego Bay, Mr. Taylor remarked that the sight was the most wonderful he had ever witnessed. During the course of the conversation, Mr. Bushyhead said the most wonderful sight that he himself had ever witnessed had been during his journey overland to California in 1849. One day his party was traveling over a great desert when a terrible storm arose. It grew so dark and the wind blew such a hurricane that the train was forced to stop. It seemed as if the emigrants and their horses and wagons would be buried in the sand that whirled into drifts about them. In the midst of the storm an old Cherokee woman knelt down and began to pray in Cherokee. Ned Bushyhead listened closely, impressed with the fervor of her words seeking Divine aid in the danger that threatened. Suddenly the wind ceased. Then the darkness lifted as a shaft of light broke through the clouds and rested upon the bent shoulders of the old Cherokee woman kneeling on the desert. In a little while, the sand and dust in the air settled and the emigrants began their journey again over the trail to California.

	miles when we came to water where we stopped untill morning. No Grass Camp 84—
Aug 14	Early start this morning Traveled about 15 miles and campe[d] on the side of the mountains Good water, very good Grass. Camp 85—
" 15	Lay Bye all day
" 16 branch run- ing east	Started this morning and Traveled down the valley.⁴¹ at noon we came to tolerable good water & grass 18 miles. we stopped two hours & then [52] Traveled due west. after traveling about 20 miles we came to wells of water which had been dug in a wet marshy Spot of ground. Bunch Grass. 38 miles since morning Camp 86—
" 17	Early start. Traveled twenty miles due west Camped on a large Spring of Good water at the foot of the Mountain. Good Grass on the Branch Camp 87— Since Leaving the Elbow Spring the country is a perfect Desert. Except the places where we camped where we found water & grass
[53]
Aug 18	This morning our course was South for a few miles Then due west. at 2 ocloek we came to good water and grass at the foot of the Mountains 20 miles. we stoped at this place for the night Camp 88—
" 19 [54]	after Traveling about two miles we passed a great many springs of hot water. We traveled along the foot of the mountains the sides of which were covered with green grass & the top with snow. Crossed many Branches of good, cold water continually & the valey covered with green grass, which to us is quite a "God-Send." Camped on a bold Running Branch." Large Cottonwood trees. Made today 25 miles. Camp 89—

⁴¹After traveling through the mountains in what is now Eastern Nevada, en route to California, the famous Donner party three years before had come to a beautiful valley, which they called "the Valley of Fifty Springs." (Houghton, op. cit., p. 44.) Brown's part's was traveling in this same region. The bold running stream was a branch of the South Fork of the Humboldt River, Nevada.

" 20	This morning a Seperation took place in the Company C. V. McNairs, May's & Martins' messes accompanied by Dr. Barker & his men seperated themselves from Capt Taylors Co— Capt Taylors Co —was joined by Dr Palmer & Eleven men, 33 persons altogather
[55]
	we continued down the valley 25 miles. Many springs of good water and plenty good grass. Camp 90— 1,662 miles from this place to Grand River Cherokee Nation— Lay by today 21st of August the Company being scarce of provisions, purchased 342 lbs of beef for which they had to pay 20 cts pr pound. Capt Oliver Camped near waiting on Arch Henry who is very unwell—
Aug 22	proceeded on & came to a creek about noon where there was some white Emigrants who had lost their horses the night before stolen by Indians. thos. [Taylor's?]
[56]

Company being informed of the fact six of our Company volunteered to go with the whites in pursuit of the Indians— The Company consisted of nineteen persons the command was given to our Captain—, the ballance of our Company proceeded & the volunteer Company to which I then belonged— took to the Mountains & after going some Eight miles found the Indians Encampment we succeeded in driving off five horses— the Indians numbered about one hundred—but our Company Escaped unhurt—not withstanding the

[57]

30 miles	arrows as we made off with the horses the Company came on 11 miles & encamped on the same Creek those of us that pursued the Indians overtook the Main Company today at noon & the whole Co came on to this place 25 miles today on the same Creek— passed by dead body lying by the road side Emeg's killed by the Indians Camp 92—
Aug 24 continued down the fork of M's R	Continued down the same creek at noon we came [58] to a large stream of water. Good grass this stream is a tributary of St Marys River.⁴² we traveled down this stream to St Marys River down which the Road from Ft Hall passes. The last ten miles of our road passes through a narrow pass high bluffs on each side of the way very Rough & rugged 35 miles since morning Camp 93—
" 25	Traveled down the Valley of St Marys R— This R. is about 30 yrds wide. No timber except willow, bold rugged & steep hills [59] grass scarce on account of the Great emegration which has passed on ahead of us Camped on the River Made 20 miles today Camp 94—
" 26	Continued down the River 25 miles. Camp 95—
" 27	Made 30 miles today Camped on the River Camp 96—
" 28	Camped on the River Made 25 miles today Camp 97—
" 29	Camped on the River. Made today 25 miles. Camp 98—
" 30th	Lay Bye part of the day. Started at 11 oclock and made 20 miles. passed a dead Indian this evening [60] killed, as we heard, by some emegrant while attempting to steal horses. Camped on the River. Camp 99—
" 31st	traveled 25 miles & camp on the River. Camp 100d—

⁴²The St. Mary's or Mary's River was first named after Marie or Mary, the Shoshone Indian girl wife of a member of Peter S. Ogden's trapping and exploring party, in 1825. Some years afterwards, it was called the Ogden River in honor of its discoverer. Still later, John C. Fremont named it the Humboldt, the name by which it is still known.—Hubert Howe Bancroft, History of Nevada, Vol. XXV, pp. 36-7.

Sept. 1st	Traveled 6 miles. Camped on the River. Camp 101 —
" 2	Traveled 30 miles today Camped on the River. Camp 102—
" 3 No Bread	Traveled 30 miles today Camped on the River. Camp 102—⁴³
" 4th	Traveled 20 miles (to the Sink of the River)—camped at a well.⁴⁴ Campe 103—
" 5	This morning we lay Bye grazing our horses as it is said to be 75 miles to the next grass. We have had no bread since Aug 28th. hardly any meat provisions scarce among the [61] Emegrants. No flour to be had for love or money we cut grass & packed it on our horses to feed to them on the Desert at four oclock this Evening we started. Continued down the waters of Marys River which at this place spreads out and resembles a large mill pond.⁴⁵ we crossed the River and traveled untill midnight when we stopped untill morning where we fed the grass to our horses which we had been packing for them. 25 miles—Camp 104—
" 6	Early start this morning we found at daylight that we were near [62] the last waters of the River fairly out on the Desert which is sandy plain for which reason traveling over it is very slow. We suffered more crossing this Desert, than we had since leaving home, and we saw more

⁴³The blurrs and blots that appear in the writing on pages 59 and 60, together with a number of corrections by crossing out figures and words, indicate the difficulty Brown had in keeping the journal at this time. No better explanation than the words "No Bread" in the date margin can be made for the error of his writing "Camp 102" twice in succession, after the party had traveled thirty miles both on the 2nd and the 3d of September.

⁴⁴Lassen's Meadows. Captain Marcy (op. cit., p. 276.) wrote: "At the Big Meadows, 23 miles from the Sink of the Humboldt, travelers should make a halt of a day or two to rest and recruit their animals and to cut grass for crossing the desert as this is the last good camping place until reaching Carson River." The Meadows were like a great swamp or morass, pitted with deep water holes or natural wells. Emigrants pastured their stock and cut grass for forage on the dry spots of ground, that were said to cover about one thousand acres, scattered over the Meadows.

⁴⁵The famous "Sink of the Humboldt," now called Humboldt Lake, in Western Nevada. The "Sink" or lake was about six miles long, that is from the north end to the point where the water of the river seemed to disappear in the desert. For that reason, early emigrants applied the name "sink" to this part of the river. It was forty miles across the desert to Carson River.

	property destroyed on this plain, Waggons, horses, mules, and cattle, than we had yet seen in crossing over the same number of miles about noon we passed C. V. McNair and Co. Talbert Bean was taken very sick early this morning and died this evening. Men dying almost every hour of the cholera about four oclock we reached Carsons Creek, where we found a great many traders from Sacramento City, with Flour [63] Bacon &c &c to sell to emegrants Great many folks here.⁴⁵ great many dying. Camp 105—
Sept 7 Carsons creek is about 15 or 20 yds wide with	today traveled up Carsons creek 12 miles and camped. T. F. Taylor drunk and not come to camp Camp 106—
" 8 good grass in the Bottoms. Large cot- tonwood trees and small willow on the Banks	Today Traveled 5 miles and camped on the creek waiting for Taylor & others, who have not come in yet. Camp 107—
" 9	traveled 8 miles, and camped on the creek Several of our Co— sick. heard of Taylor and others being on ahead sick Camp 108—

⁴⁶The settlement that sprang up here was called Ragtown. The year 1850 was the worst in the period of the gold rush (1849-53). "So many oxen and horses perished in the fatal sink that the effluvia revived the cholera, and sent it to ravage the enfeebled crowds which escaped into the Sacramento Valley. Behind them on the plains were still thousands battling not alone with this and other scourges, but with famine and cold, for snow fell early and massed in heavy drifts. Tales of distress were brought by each arrival, told not in words only, but the blanched and haggard features, until California was filled with pity, and the government combined with the miners and other self-sacrificing men in efforts for relief. * * * Emaciated men, carrying infants crying for food stopped to feed on the putrefying carcasses lining the road, or to drink from alkaline pools, only to increase their misery, and finally end in suicide. 'The suffering is unparalleled' cry several journals in September, 1850, in their appeal for relief; nine-tenths of the emigrants were on foot, without food or money; not half of their oxen, nor one-fourth of their horses, survived to cross the mountains, and beyond the desert were still 20,000 souls, the greater part of whom were destitute."—Hubert Howe Bancroft, History of California, Vol. VI, pp. 154-5.

[64]
Sept 10	Traveled 10 miles to where we found Taylor. our sick all Better Camped on the bank of the creek Camp 109—
" 11 Rugged hills destitute of any growth whatever	Jonas (a black Boy) in my mess very sick also several of the Co— Traveled today 3 miles & camped on the creek Camp 110
" 12	Lay Bye on account of Sickness. A Peak of the Siera Nevada Mountains covered with Snow in view—
" 13	Lay Bye. Jonas not expected to live—
[65]
Sept 14	This morning about 10 oclock Jonas died & was buried about 12 oclock we started and traveled 8 miles up the creek. Camp 111—
" 15	Continued up the Creek 30 miles today camped on a Spring branch, running from the mountains & emptying into the creek. Camp 112—
" 16	today we entered Carsons Valley. traveled along the foot of mountains on our right, the sides of which are covered with pine trees, & the tops spotted with snow
[66]
twenty miles today	very many springs of good water running from the mountains into the creek, also basins of warm & hot water the valley covered with good grass. we camped at the foot of the mountain on a bold & swift running stream of water. Camp 113— At this place, & up this Stream, there is a "pack Rout" across the mountains which is said to be the nearest though the roughest way, than the waggon Road
[67]
Sept 17th	continued along the foot of the Mountains 10 miles camped in bunch of timber to the left of the road Camp 114—
" 18	This morning after Traveling eight miles we came to a large "Kanyon" very narrow rough, Rockey

115 Camp
the moun-
tains are cov-
ered with
large Pine
trees.

road. very rough for waggons. Steep rocky Mountains on each side. we traveled along up a clear, bold running Stream called "Kanyon creek." we passed through the Kanyon, seven miles and camped at the foot of the hills ½ mile [68] to the right of the Road Grass very good. This evening T. F. Taylor & Mess, myself and Mess camped at this place waiting for Perry Brewer⁴⁷ who is with J. M. Estill being too unwell to ride horseback. Estill not being expected to get through the kanyon untill tomorrow. Mays, Adair & Fields with their mess's traveled on. Made today 15 miles Large Pine trees all up this Kanyon. Snow Peaks near on ahead—

" 19

after traveling Seven miles this morning we reached the Base of the mountain. we reached the Summit of the first Ridge [69] over the worst Road that I ever traveled. Pack animals can hardly get up, much Less Loaded waggons. after reaching the Summit, we descended gradually, still over very rough road, a few miles, when we reach into a valley with a Lake in it. Many streams of water running from the Snows of the mountains into the Lake. we crossed the valley which is ½ a mile across and then began the ascent of the last Ridge. this mountain is higher than the other, though not so steep, nor the Road so Rockey. we had to pass over Snow, near the Summit. on reaching the Summit we caught up with Mays, Adair, & others. [70] immediately after reaching the Summit, we began to descend.⁴⁸ we traveled a left hand Pack Rout, which here leaves the waggon Road running round fifteen miles, and

⁴⁷Oliver Hazard Perry Brewer was a captain in Company C of Colonel Stand Watie's Cherokee Mounted Rifle Regiment, in 1861. Mr. Brewer married Delilah Amelia Vann. Their son, O. H. P. Brewer, Jr., now of Muskogee, was elected a member of the Oklahoma Constitutional Convention in 1906.

⁴⁸Carson Pass, in Eastern California, south of Lake Tahoe. The first Summit was said "by old-timers to be the most dreaded 10,560 feet" of mountain road west of the Missouri River. The lake in the valley is called Twin Lakes, near Kirkwoods, California. With the crossing of the second Summit, the party had crossed. the Sierra Nevada and were at last an the Pacific slope—Archer Butler Hulburt, Forty-Niners, (Little, Brown and Company, 1932) pp. 279-81.

	very rough road. camped on the side of the Mt. a Lake below. Good grass Made today 25 miles Camp 116—
" 20	Passed down by and partly around the Lake and up a very steep hill, when we intersected the waggon road. passed on a few miles father an camped [71] two miles to the left of the road. Made today 10 miles Camp 117—
Sept 21st	this morning it began to rain, and rained all day and night. we traveled slowly. Passed the Leak⁴⁹ Springs and came to "Camp Creek" where we camped, having made 15 miles today Camp 118—
" 22	Cloudy & Rainy. we traveled down Camp creek half a mile, when we took to the hills again came to the Fork of the road.⁵⁰ Made today 15 miles [72] Camped 2 miles to to the right of the road Camp 119—
" 23	this morning we found that four of my horses & one of Brewers had been stolen during the night. My packs were carried on by Mays & Adair, and we all walked. Came to Pleasant Valley Made today 10 miles Camp 120—
" 24	we all walked to Ringgold & Weavervill⁵¹, made today 10 miles Camp 121—
" 25	Lay Bye
[73]
" 26	walked on to Lynches' Trading house. Made today 10 miles Camp 122—
" 27	Walked on to "Leapers Trading Post" 2 miles Camp 123—

⁴⁹Leak Spring, Eastern El Dorado County, California.

⁵⁰Right hand road led to Hangtown, now Placerville, California.

⁵¹From information kindly supplied by Willard O. Waters, Bibliographer for Americana, Huntington Library and Art Gallery, San Marino, California, the places mentioned by Brown after leaving Leak Springs were in El Dorado County, California. Camp Creek was thirty miles east of Placerville. Pleasant Valley was ten miles southeast of Placerville "Ring Gold" was on the road from the latter place to the southern part of the County. Weaverville (or Weberville), the site of which has now "reverted to wilderness," was about five miles south of Coloma and two miles from Placerville. Weaverville, or Weberville, was one of the mining camps on Weber Creek, having been founded by Charles M. Weber in 1848.—Bancroft, History of California, op. cit., p. 74; Hulburt, op. cit., p. 316; George Willis Read, A Pioneer of 1850. (Little, Brown, and Company, 1927), pp. 90 and 97 and index.

" 28	Moved up on to the head of Dead Mans Hollow.⁵² 5 miles. Camp 124—
Oct. 10	My Mess moved to the Arkansas Log Cabbin the Cherokees here are G. W. Adair & Mays and their Mess's⁵³ we commenced building Cabbins for the Winter
[74]
Nov 2	I and my mess moved into our Cabbins which was the first time that I slept in a house since the night of the 27th of April—
" 11	Adair & Mays & others commenced "throwing up" dirt so as to be ready for the rainy season
" 14	My mess commenced throwing up dirt at the same place with Adair & Mays— John A. Huffaker was taken sick with the Diarier [75] and died Dec. 11⁵⁴

Chronicles of Oklahoma
Volume 12, No. 2
June, 1934
THE JOURNAL OF JOHN LOWERY BROWN, OF THE CHEROKEE NATION EN ROUTE TO CALIFORNIA IN 1850

Transcribed from the Original and annotated
By Muriel H. Wright

Chronicles of Oklahoma Volume 12, No. 2 June, 1934 THE JOURNAL OF JOHN LOWERY BROWN, OF THE CHEROKEE NATION EN ROUTE TO CALIFORNIA IN 1850

Transcribed from the Original and annotated By Muriel H. Wright

Chronicles of Oklahoma
Volume 12, No. 2
June, 1934
THE JOURNAL OF JOHN LOWERY BROWN, OF THE CHEROKEE NATION EN ROUTE TO CALIFORNIA IN 1850

Transcribed from the Original and annotated
By Muriel H. Wright